When Ian Chang, master blender and brand ambassador for Kavalan Distillery, talks about his whisky you are drawn into a world of passion and experimentation. Balanced with a deep understanding of whisky and keen business acumen, I am inclined to believe this uniquely Taiwanese whisky will flourish. Already they are claiming international awards and the distillery is set to expand by 3 pairs of wash and spirit stills in the next few years.
The Kavalan Distillery takes it’s name from the historic region where the distillery stands. Construction started in 2005, and the very first drops of new make were caught at 3:30pm on the 11th of March 2006.
Taiwan, like South Africa, benefits from a hotter climate in which whisky matures faster. So much so that distillation expert Dr Jim Swan, Mr. Chang’s mentor, was at first concerned. The downside of the hotter climate is an aggressive angel’s share – or as Mr. Chang puts it, devil’s share – of between 10% to 15%. So while Kavalan may never be able to release a very old whisky, at a young age they are already a match for their older cousins from colder climes.
The Kavalan range consists solely of naturally coloured, unfiltered single malt and single cask expressions. This is a response to the Taiwanese market which drinks 90% single malts (Singleton is the dram of choice).
There is a limited release of a mildly peated expression but the body of Kavalan range is unpeated, floral and fruity, along with with some serious sherried expressions. The peatiness of the aforementioned expression was dialled down specifically to not overpower the fruity Kavalan character.
On entering the tasting we were offered tumblers of Concertmaster. Its’ bottle is a Christmassy bright green and shaped – like the Kavalan Single Malt bottle – to be reminiscent of Taipei 101. The world’s tallest building until 2010, and still the tallest in Taiwan. A physical manifestation of Kavalan’s commitment to create a singularly Taiwanese dram.
The Concertmaster is matured in ex-Bourbon casks – we were told they use mostly Jim Bean – and finished in port wood. On the nose honey, toffee, oak, warm vanilla, guava. On the palate the vanilla and fruit comes to the forefront. There is a curious pine sap twist hidden in there too.
After introducing us to Taiwan and King Car, the Kavalan parent company, we rolled up our sleeves and knuckled down to the business of tasting, starting with their entry level expression, the simply titled Kavalan Single Malt. Blended from at least 6 different casks it is mild but complex. Similar to the Concertmaster but with stronger fruit flavours and dark vanilla which I came to associate with Kavalan. It ends in a creamy buttery finish.
It is worth mentioning – and experiencing – the thick gorgeous mouthfeel of Kavalan, which Ian Chang attributes to the local spring water they use.
Next was the King Car Conductor. Perhaps confusingly named for non-Taiwanese, in the future it may be rebranded as the Kavalan Conductor for international markets. Ian Chang describes this as the Kavalan Single Malt, but more. All the flavours are intensified. Delicious, I would aim for this if you’re thinking of sporting a quintessential Kavalan in your collection.
Next up was the first cask strength, single cask Solist. Kavalan is casked at 59.9% ABV and retains a mean hook even after a few years of paying the hefty devil’s share. Have a wee experimental sip and then add water, it does not drown easily.
The Solist range (so spelt to be easier on the Taiwanese tongue) contains 4 expressions: ex-Bourbon, Sherry, Fino and Vinho. Fine individual casks of the representative ancestry are selected and bottled under the expression’s label.
I find this concept refreshing as I don’t know of another distillery that is releasing a continuous expression made entirely of individual casks. It is clearly a gamble from the consumer stand point, who will have to be a little adventurous and trust that Kavalan will always bottle quality casks.
That said, the 3 Solist expressions we tasted were excellent. The ex-Bourbon is essentially a cask strength Kavalan, and brought to mind Glenmorangie Original.
The Sherry – all oloroso casks – is delicious sherry heavy artillery. Reminiscent of Macallan and my recent paramour The Arran 16yr. It has a decadent dark colour, another product of Taiwanese climate. It takes only months to get a depth of colour that takes years further north.
Finally the Fino, finished in Fino Sherry casks is a more refined version of the Sherry. Still powerful but lighter in colour with a more restrained character, this is for deep quiet thoughts.
Thank you to Ian Chang for a candid, informative and entertaining tasting and for sharing your whisky with us. To Paul LaCock and Tamara Ingram of Aficionados for our invitation. And to my fellow tasters whose questions and conversation improved the evening.